RTW Blogs in Fiji with Mark Eveleigh
Someone once said that strangers are just good friends you haven’t met yet.
One of the great things about taking an extended trip through so many countries
is that you end up with so many great friends…and so many more excuses to
pass back through the same places yet again, sometime in the future.
These days with email, facebook, skype and messenger it’s easier than ever
to keep in contact with people you’ve met on the road…and even to hook
up with ‘unknown good friends’ even before you arrive in a country.
It is particularly reassuring to be able to touch down in a new country and have
instant access to knowledgeable, friendly and hospitable local people who can point
you in the right direction towards interesting places or secret spots that are way
beyond the realm of the average guidebooks. Couchsurfing (www.couchsurfing.com)
is a forum that I’ve used several times on this trip. I’ve surfed four
couches on this trip (in Nicaragua, El Salvador, Hawaii and, now, Fiji) and I fully
intend one day to catch up with the people that so quickly became good friends,
either to visit again, or to repay their phenomenal hospitality by hosting them
with my own spare bed somewhere on the other side of the world.
Once you put a profile up on the Couchsurfing website you are able to search through
a database of over a million couchsurfers. Major cities like LA might have over
a thousand contacts offering (mostly) a bed/couch for a night or two or, possibly,
just a contact who is more than happy to meet up with for a coffee or a beer. Although
on the face of it is essentially free accommodation, in some cases it might not
actually turn out to be cheaper than staying in a local hostel since you really
ought to turn up with a small gift and on a short stay it is a good idea to invite
your host out for dinner or (on a longer one) perhaps also stock the fridge.
Beyond what is often very pleasant accommodation Couchsurfing’s main advantage
is that when you touch down in an unfamiliar place you immediately have the benefit
of sound local knowledge and, with luck, perhaps the most enthusiastic and interesting
guide you will ever find.
Fiji: Within 15 minutes of meeting up with local lady Milika in her Nadi boutique
I had learned more about Fiji and Fijian life than I had in the previous two days
at a beautiful (but sterile) resort on the coast. Milika has hosted more than a
dozen travellers in her lovely four-bedroom house. She clearly enjoys meeting people
from all over the world and continues to take typical Fijian hospitality to a new
level. The five days I spent with Milika’s family gave me a chance to experience
Fijian life from an angle that few tourists will ever experience…including
an unexpected and very rushed jaunt to the highlands during what seemed to be an
extremely serious tsunami warning.
Hearing of my ambition to learn how to cook with a traditional Fijian ‘lovo’
(ground oven) Milika even arranged for me to spend a morning, in company with a
good part of the local rugby team, burying chicken, fish and taro in a bed of superheated
rocks in her front garden. And we spent the same afternoon feasting and lying around
drinking ceremonial kava (known here as ‘grog’).
Hawaii: Never in the history of Hawaiian tourism has a weary ‘haole’
landed on his feet in the islands in quite the style that I did. Within forty minutes
of touching down at Honolulu airport I was on a leaping speedboat (piloted by a
screaming Hawaiian speed-freak) with four bikini-clad beach babes. And within an
hour I was standing up to my chest on an oceanic sandbank sipping from a frosted
bottle of Longboard beer while my host Allison and her boyfriend Mike clued me in
on island life. I spent a week crashing on Allison’s couch and learned a lot
about island life from her and her Hawaiian flatmates (…and their pet rat!).
It might have been a week of sleep deprivation (due in the first instance partly
to the mescal and rum I smuggled in from Mexico and afterwards to the more or less
limitless endurance of this house full of University of Hawaii scholars). But it
was great fun and when I again hit the road I had the feeling that I had left some
of my favourite people in that house in Hawaii.
San Salvador: “Ok, no problem,” the young lady on the phone said, “I
won’t be back from work for a few hours but the girl is at the flat cleaning.
Just tell her who you are and make yourself at home. There’s beer in the fridge
and coffee in the cupboard. I’ll see you later.”
She had never even met me before and knew nothing about me beyond my Couchsurfing
profile and yet she was confidently inviting this weary wayfarer into her home.
San Salvador has a reputation of being a dangerous city (though not as dangerous
as it was when I last passed through here in the early nineties). Yet this level
of trust is something typical of many parts of Latin America…and something
that is rarely found in the so-called ‘developed’ and ‘civilised’
countries farther north. (Among a thousand couches on offer in LA I was unable to
get a single invitation).
I was only in San Salvador for one night but I invited my new friend out for a steak
dinner during which we chatted ceaselessly and even in this short time I still came
to understand more about her city than I might have learned in several days at one
of the big hotels.
Nicaragua: My first couchsurfing experience was in Managua where two European women
took me under their collective wings. They had wracked up several years of Nicaraguan
experience between them and, since I was on the lookout for a magazine story from
Managua, they were the best possible contacts I could hope for. Also, they had a
deep interest in their adopted country and a limitless thirst to learn and enjoy
their time there. I had planned to stay 3 or 4 days and ended up staying for 10.
And I wish I could have stayed more!
I have just arrived in Sydney – halfway around my ‘world tour’
– and these people are responsible for some of the most memorable highlights
of what has been a truly astounding six months..